A AMIZADE ENTRE AUDREY HEPBURN E GIVENCHY | Crônicas da Moda por Maria Landeiro
A AMIZADE ENTRE AUDREY HEPBURN E GIVENCHY | Crônicas da Moda por Maria Landeiro
Hello my loves, this is your first fashion chronicle of 2022 and although it’s already mid-January, I can’t fail to wish all of you who follow me here a happy new year and say that we’re going to start the year here on the channel very well because today’s video is about two universes that I love. Today’s chronicle involves two characters who marked both the fashion world and the world of cinema and who were absolutely inseparable friends.
In today’s fashion chronicle, I’m going to tell you the story of the friendship between author and ré Birds, our eternal Breakfast at Tiffany’s star, and designer Hubert de Givenchy. A quick little bit to get us started: if you’re not yet subscribed to the fashion channel, subscribe because you help me continue telling you fashion chronicles and you’ll also know when there’s something new here on the channel.
Every 15 days there’s a new video, okay? And don’t wait for the fashion chronicles, there’s a cool Instagram account about fashion, fashion history, costumes from movies, series, curiosities, I’m sure you’ll find it. Okay, first of all, it was audio, and it’s because… and who w
as a part of… Okay, audio… It’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, right? But besides that, she was an actress born in Belgium in 1929, and the rest of her life is that during World War II, she and her family moved to Holland, right? They were the ones who took refuge there, right? Which was, incidentally, one of the places that suffered the most from Nazism, and she actively participated with her family in the Resistance against the Nazis when she was very young, she was about 12 or 13 years old when the war ended.
She moved to the United States and started an acting career there, first on Broadway and then she went on to the movie screens, one to have fun, on the other hand, the activity comes next, validity audio. She was two or three years older and was born in a small town in France. She was the daughter of Marie Leigh, so she had a very comfortable life, but she learned to sew with her grandmother, right? Who had a sewing workshop and made the town’s carpets, right? She was in the right place at the right time, right? Because the party is with the knife and the
cheese in hand, right? So when… At the age of seven, he moved to Paris to study fashion, and there he had the opportunity to intern with the best designers. It was a time when, by the grace of God, he opened his own atelier in 1952 at the age of 24. Now, the story of how some of you met is wonderful because it all started with a misunderstanding.
Look, the year was 1953, and the other woman was preparing to make the second film of her career. And you know, Sabrina, for those who have never seen the film, that’s the story. Sabrina is Fernanda. She works with a lot of smiles and is from New York, and she has a crush, a real infatuation, on David, one of the sons of this family.
After spending two years in Paris studying gastronomy, she is returning transformed into a very elegant woman and attracts the attention not only of David, but also of his brother. But her character was going to go through this whole style transformation in Paris, and he thought it would be cool, it would be very good for her character to dress in the best way possible.
In French fashion, and she’s absolutely right, you know. If I were her, I would do it. They recommended my atelier to have fun, and she showed up there tomorrow wearing Capri pants, a cotton blouse with the package, you know, quite open at the shoulder, a pair of ballet flats, and a Venetian gondolier’s straw hat with a red ribbon tied around it, holding onto the giant.
He was super busy at the time because he was preparing the pieces for his son, who was already in his mouth. But when he heard that Rap Verde was waiting for him, he dropped everything and ran to answer. But he thought that who was waiting for him was Ketlin Reborn, who was a very famous actress at that time, super sacred. She had won several Oscars, she was a big star.
When he arrived and saw the audio, he was astonished because he had no idea who she was. The truth is, she wasn’t known at the time. Still, because she had only made one film, which she would later win the Oscar for best actress for, right? In that first film, nobody knew who she was. On Instagram at that time, she wasn’t a globally known figure.
Well, she was talking to him and said that she… She was going to make a movie, and she wanted to produce some costumes for her to wear. She thought she had everything for such and such a character, and he said, “No, no, I don’t want to, I can’t. I’m too busy in my atelier, I’m full of things to finish, your fashion show to do.
I don’t have any work efficiency to do. Sure, what do you want, my daughter?” Not satisfied, she said, “Okay, then I’m inviting you to dinner tonight.” She invited him to dinner, they went to dinner, they talked there, and so on. And then, how many times did he leave? Oh, so it’s working out with her, and he decided to make at least some costumes for her to wear in the Sabrina movie.
And this first incredible partnership resulted in one of the most beautiful costumes in the history of cinema, which is this dress here that the character Sabrina wears when she goes to a ball at her employers’ house. The first thing I want you to notice about this dress is the very defined waist; it’s very fitted. This is a trademark of 1950s fashion, which was launched a little earlier in 1947 when Christian Dior p
resented his dress that… Among other elements, it featured a look with a well-defined waist and a super full skirt. I’ve already talked more about the Nile in my video about the history of Christian Dior, which I’ll link above and also in the description for you to watch later. But going back to Sabrina’s dress, what I find most fantastic about this creation is that it has this overskirt, and let’s stop here.
It’s a very fitted dress, right? I said it has a fitted waist, a straight skirt, and is short. She said it’s ankle-length, not meant to be completely exposed. And then there’s this overskirt here, it’s something placed separately, right? It’s like a train, but it ‘s also voluminous, so it gives a very glamorous, almost princess-like air to the dress.
I even think this dress is a great model for brides who are open to the idea of having a wedding dress, which many people complain about, that they get a wedding dress and never wear it again. This one allows you to have this beautiful bridal moment, and then you just remove the overskirt and you’re left with the dress, and you can wear it on various occasions in your life.
Besides, this dress opens up the… Here are two more looks from Sabrina’s “Snack Time” collection. One of them was this wool set, which is actually the first look she wore when she returned from Paris. She’s all dolled up, and it also has a Nile influence, not only because of the fitted waist we see there, but also because the jacket has a volume, right? When it cinches the waist, instead of going straight down, it creates this volume, this arched shape, which was also present in the coat from Christian Dior’s New Look. So there’s
an influence from Dior. The skirt is a fitted pencil skirt, because Givenchy is short, but with a slimmer, more streamlined design, without any stripes, and she loved that super voluminous beach look. And the third Diva Chic look Sabrina wears is this black dress, which is quite basic, fitted at the waist, with a flared skirt, but the details—the cute inscriptions on the side of each strap—and the V-neck in the back, which is wonderful.
These two details take this dress out of the ordinary. This black dress even serves as a reference. Regarding the costume design for the series *The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel*, she wears a dress very similar to this one in one episode. Well, it was all beautiful, wasn’t it? The film was a success, and the others became friends.
He did n’t like much interference in the costume design. It was Edith Head who was not only the costume designer for the film *Sabrina*, but she was a Hollywood costume designer for over 40 years. She designed costumes for major American film productions. She was nominated for the Oscar for Best Costume Design more than 30 times and took home eight statuettes.
Obviously, she and her team created most of the costumes, including the entire cast. It wasn’t just audio, and she didn’t spend the whole film in just three outfits. So they really created the bulk of the costumes, but the three deconstructed pieces played an important role. They became iconic pieces and contributed greatly to the Oscars.
They were probably pieces used by her character in important moments of the story, but then when she was taken off the screen, she gained status. I don’t know. Hi Angela Shi, she took over as *If Everything Were an Idea*. She thought it had come from her head and was super upset about it and demanded that in his next films he be credited along with the costume team and that the clothes he created be produced in Hollywood studios.
Another film with beautiful costumes by Jesus Dias is Cinderella in Paris from 1957. I imagine he must have had a field day creating the costumes for this film because the story helps, it talks about fashion and takes place in Paris. So everything matched to have gorgeous costumes. But my favorite is this red dress in that Louvre scene.
It was filmed on location, and you can see the design is quite similar to the design of Sabrina’s dress. It’s also strapless, fitted at the waist, and the skirt is very similar. But it had, you know, so you see it in the same place. Now, God, and it also has an overskirt. Actually, here it functions more like a train, because it doesn’t have all the volume that Sabrina’s has, so here it’s more of a train, but it’s something attached to the p
art of the… The dress, and also the fabric of this red dress, is more fluid, right? With Sabrina, more informed, but this one here, similar to the movement, right, with the snake of this staircase. So, he has to go exhaust the good giant, the work also became very good friends outside the studios, right? They were part of each other’s personal lives, and he also created very beautiful clothes for the most memorable moments of her life, with her second wedding, right? The christening of her son, and so on.
The next thing, once defining their relationship as a marriage, it wasn’t almost a platonic love that they didn’t have for each other. And without a doubt, it’s one of the most famous and beautiful fruits that this marriage left us. It was the dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s. A curiosity about this dress is the following: initially, it was supposed to be a short dress.
At least that’s what the designer thought for the first time, but then, after this change, and also the costume designer, she said, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s, do n’t you think it’s better to leave it long?” So she went there and altered the model. When we dissect this dress, we’ll see that Dani, we’ll fill it in here, something more minimalist, but…
The silhouette is simple, a slimmer fit, right? The waist is defined, but not as defined as it was in Sabrina’s dress, right? Very fitted. After all, we’re talking about the early 60s, and beachwear is evolving to become a looser style, right? The skirt also follows this trend, Alice, here it stops at ankle height, and for me, the great thing about this dress, my friends, is the detail on the back, which is something simple yet very beautiful.
And now, you kind of don’t expect the back of the dress to be like this; you’ll see it’s going to be the same as the front, right? And you always liked to add a surprise, right? In the back neckline of your clothes, like he did in Sabrina’s dress, also with the black flared dress that he took from the gray one here that had a V-neck in the back.
And he learned this from Balenciaga, who was a master of his, his great idol. Balenciaga used to put a detail on the back of his designs; it could be a lot of volume, a deep neckline. Balenciaga was even more used in this aspect, I must say, as he was more restrained, more minimalist. He always put things like that, from Italy, different, but not as daring as Balenciaga.
If you want… To learn more details about that Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress and other costumes from the film, I have a video here just talking about it. I’ll leave all the Breakfast at Tiffany’s costumes at home here, and it should also express… well, if not the world of cinema, the pastor and the beautiful ones we’re talking about, many others in the fashion world.
The friendship between Audi and Givenchy helped promote a younger image of French fashion. Givenchy wasn’t exactly a balanced designer who dressed older women, mothers, grandmothers, right? In haute couture, but he also wasn’t exactly a designer who loved that paradigm of doing things like that, bold cartoonish ones, something young but aggressive, right? I’m also praying that he had his muse in cinema, who was beautiful but had a completely different profile from the designer, the modern, youthful, classic designer, but he
had to be very easygoing, like Balenciaga, right? And also without being too rebellious, like that, and that’s why he became the favorite designer of many young women. A cool detail about Breakdown is that he was a very handsome and very elegant man. So much so that he was known as the most elegant man in French fashion.
They worked together for over 30 years until 1987 when she made her last film and decided to retire from her acting career. The last gift he gave to his muse was a navy blue quilted coat, and he was at her deathbed in Switzerland when she passed away in 1993.
Today I haven’t found it yet, but on the other hand, she still lives on through the good years and the last great designers of the 20th century. That effect, his contemporaries Balenciaga, Dior, and Saint-Garden, that Val-Garden, all wore. Well, and it was his turn in 2018. That’s it, folks. I hope you enjoyed learning a little more about this beautiful friendship between Dori, right? And that left so many beautiful things for us to see in the films, right? And I confess that it’s a friendship goal for me.
I love this story, and Dori being able to tell it to you now. I’m going to ask you to leave your like below this video so I know you liked it, and also leave your comment telling me if you’ve seen any of these. Audio films, or if you have any suggestions for video topics for this channel, that’s fine too!